FAQ.

Q. MY WINE HAS NOT STARTED TO FERMENT ?

This may or may not be true. What you are really saying is " I am not seeing bubbles pass through my airlock."

The wine could in fact be fermenting but the fermentation gas (co2) is escaping from somewhere other than through the airlock due to an ineffective seal.

How can we confirm this?…

Simple, the only true way of checking fermentation progress is by using a hydrometer. Take three specific gravity readings over a period of 24 -36 hours. If these readings are the same then we can safely assume that fermentation has not started. If the readings are coming down then fermentation is taking place. In this case there is no need to worry.

Let the wine ferment until the desired specific gravity is reached and finish it off accordingly. However, if fermentation has not started then we need to get it going by adding fresh yeast. This is a little more tricky. We need to identify the cause of the problem and remove it. It is a process of elimination.

Why has fermentation not started, is it the yeast?…

Yeast is a living organism and can very quickly lose its viability if it is subjected to adverse storage conditions i.e. damp, prolonged excessive heat or direct sunlight. The yeast may have been fine when packaged but if it has lost its viability unfortunately this only becomes apparent when we come to use it. Get into the habit of starting the yeast off in a glass or cup initially to ensure that it is working. This way we know that if there is no ferment after it has been added to the wine "must" it is not the yeast that is causing the problem.

What other reasons could there be?…

A common cause of non-fermentation is temperature during primary fermentation. If the temperature is too cold the ferment becomes very sluggish almost to the point of not working. Usually if you give the " must" a good stir and move it somewhere warmer the ferment picks up.

Yeast cannot tolerate long periods of heat so if the temperature becomes too hot the yeast cells are killed. The aim is to put your fermenting vessel somewhere not too cold, not too hot and where the temperature remains fairly constant as fluctuating temperatures also affect the performance of the yeast.

If your kit is one where sugar has to be added, determine if all the sugar has completely disolved . Un-dissolved sugar will clog the yeast cells and inhibit them from doing their job.

After you cleaned your fermenter did you thoroughly rinse all the sterilising fluid away? It could be that the presence of sodium metabisulphite is inhibiting the yeast cells.

Have you actually added yeast? This might sound stupid but it has been known to happen. Remember, viable yeast added to a combination of grape juice, sugar and water would produce ferment. If fermentation is not apparent use your hydrometer to confirm.

Identify the cause · Remove it · Add fresh yeast if necessary

Q. MY WINE STARTED TO FERMENT BUT STOPPED AND IT TASTES SWEET ?

Any wine where fermentation ceases prematurely may be considered to be "stuck" or "sticking". This may be the result of using old yeast, acid imbalance, nutrient or vitamin deficiency, particularly when producing a wine made from ingredients. However, "kit" wines specially formulated usually "stick" for other reasons.

Most commonly, due to fermentation temperature being too high or exposed to prolonged periods of heat. Yeast cells die if exposed to prolonged periods of heat. Fermentation itself gives out heat so that although the air surrounding the ferment may appear cool enough the temperature within the fermenter may be dangerously high.

• Infection. If the yeast becomes contaminated, bacterial off-flavours will develop. The bacteria will inhibit the establishment of a fermentable yeast colony.
• Sterilising fluid left in the fermenter will affect the yeast. Make sure that fermenters are thoroughly rinsed before use.
• The addition of too much sugar initially will cause the yeast cells to rupture.
• Undissolved sugar will build up a layer of syrup at the bottom of the fermenter and will inhibit the yeast.

Q. How do I restart my wine ?

Before we can do anything the cause of the "sticking" needs to be identified and removed. Then we can add fresh yeast and everything should be ok. However, the way in which the new yeast is introduced may mean the difference between success and failure, particularly when re-starting 5 gallons.

Rather than add the yeast directly to the bulk wine it is better to break the "must" down and re-start in stages.

We suggest the following method:

• Sterilise a demi-john.
• Fill the demi-john to no more than half way with wine from the bulk.
• Add a small amount of yeast nutrient.
• Add a good re-start yeast.
• Put the demi-john in a warm place.

When fermentation is well underway top up to the gallon with wine from the bulk. Continue this way until all the wine is fermenting.

Q. Why is my wine cloudy ?

This could be due to different causes.

• The wine might still be fermenting.
• The temperature could be too hot or too cold.
• The presence of bacteria, pectin, starch or protein.

Well made wines will clear naturally given time and it is important that they are given time to clear. However, sometimes we need to give them a helping hand and resort to fining or filtering. The use of a good quality wine yeast will ensure that a firm sediment forms during fermentation and that any subsequent movement of the fermenting vessel is unlikely to cause "swirling up" clouding the wine.

When fermentation is complete and the wine is "racked" it should be moved to somewhere cooler. Do not put it into the refrigerator where the temperature is too cold to allow the clearing process.

Try to keep temperature fairly constant and not fluctuating.

• PECTIN - It is reasonable to assume that pectin will be present to some extent in wines. Prevention is better than cure. Use a pectin destroying enzyme when adding the yeast or during fermentation.
• STARCH - Wines made using ingredients such as bananas, grains and root vegetables which contain starch need to treated with fungal amylase.
• PROTEIN - If enzymes are used initially protein hazes are probable. Finings will aid the clearing process.
• BACTERIA - Spoilage organisms can enter the wine in several ways. Ensure that all equipment that comes into contact with the wine is thoroughly sterilised.

Do not keep "old" equipment - update. Ensure fermentation starts quickly. Do not leave the wine on the "leys" at the end of fermentation. ?

Q. I have difficulty in getting my corks into the bottles. What is the best method of corking?

Invariably when we are asked this question we find that the winemaker is using a 'hand corker,' a cheap, simple tool where the cork is inserted into the bottle using pressure applied with the palm of the users hand. This method of corking is usually fine when using corks that have been pre-soaked to make them supple.

However it is not 100% effective. There are many different makes of corker available, most are relatively inexpensive and if used correctly, will last many years.

Young's always recommend the use of a 2-handled or a 3-lever type of corker. These are readily available in the shops and provide a much more reliable method of producing an effective seal. For a few pounds more you can get a floor standing type of corker, which will take even commercial size corks.

In order to ensure a good seal in the bottleneck the diameter of the cork is important. Commercial applications use a 24mm diameter.

However, to facilitate the use of hand corking machines in the home brew market, this diameter has been reduced to 22mm. We know that some type of hand corkers are still inadequate at the 22mm diameter and can only provide enough insertion force with extreme difficulty by the operator. This is why Young's recommend the 2-handled / 3-lever type.

Q. I have just bought some corks which say 'do not soak' on the packet. What would happen if they were soaked?

These corks have been treated with an approved silicone material in order to facilitate easier corking. It is not necessary to soak these corks prior to use. If they are soaked a 'milky' residue rubs off and this can be imparted to your wine. Although totally harmless, this residue looks unsightly. It will settle given time and 'racking' or filtering helps to speed up its removal. Also, a silicone treated cork that has been soaked will disintegrate upon extraction from the bottle. The amount of silicone applied to these corks is a compromise between two factors:

a) Too much silicone used could result in the cork coming back out of the bottle due to the reduced friction.

b) Too little silicone used and the cork becomes too difficult to insert into the bottle.